19th Anniversary 94 www.afamag.com | w ww.incollect.com B etween 1900 and 1950, the Cartier family produced the firm’s most iconic designs through the use of state- of-the-art techniques in enameling, stone setting, and timepiece production. With international branches and the use of regionally specialized workshops, Louis Francois Cartier, and his three sons, Alfred, Pierre, and Jacque, innovated the jewelry design process, becoming “Jeweler to the Kings and Kings of the jewelers.” 1 The firm first originated in 1847 when Louis-Francois Cartier (1819–1904) took over the Paris-based business of his employer Adolphe Piccard. Louis expanded the business and opened his own shop at 9 Boulevard Des Italiens, Paris, in 1859 retailing jewelry and objects d’art from various manufacturers for the next fifty years. In 1874, Louis-Francois’s son, Alfred (1841–1925), took over the management of the Parisian shop and was able to grow the firm further by gaining additional prestigious suppliers such as Fossin, Froment-Meurice, Gueyton, Falize & Boucheron. The need to satisfy his clients’ requests to repair and improve jewelry purchased from him is believed to have directed Alfred toward designing and manufacturing his own creations. Soon after, Louis and Alfred became partners, relocating to 13 Rue de la Paix in 1899, in the heart of the jewelry and couturier quarter of Paris. This remains the firm’s flagship premises. During this time frame, Alfred and his father, Louis were supplying many of the leading families of Europe and, in 1902, the Cartier firm was appointed royal jeweler for King Edward VII’s coronation. With increased orders placed from this landmark event and new prestige for the Cartier designs, Louis asked his Cartier’ I onic Design from the B lle Époque to the Post-War Era by Jason Blake Nichinson Fig. 1: A Cartier platinum, diamond set, and “zig- zag” Russian ray enamel guilloche Pear Bell-form shaped pen- dant watch with neoclassical diamond millegrain fern sprays, circa 1910. Ye Olde Timekeepers,Inc., New York.