19th Anniversary

— Great Britain — 19th Anniversary 156 www.afamag.com |  www.incollect.com Attributed to the Guild of Handicraft, Necklace, ca. 1900. Gold, sapphire, enamel. Collection of Richard H. Driehaus. © 2014 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris. Photograph by John A. Faier, 2014, © The Richard H. Driehaus Museum. The Guild of Handicraft, London, was one of the earliest proponents and makers of Arts and Crafts jewelry, as well as metalwork, bookbindings, and other objects. Structured like the artisan guilds of medieval times, the Guild of Handicraft was founded by architect and metalsmith Charles Robert Ashbee (English, 1863–1942) to teach young men of impoverished circumstances how to make a living in metalwork, furniture, and bookbinding. Ashbee was a key player in the popularity of jewelry as part of the Arts and Crafts movement, and the jewelry produced by his guild is among the earliest made in the style. The Guild inspired other collectives, such as the Artificers’ Guild. By banding together to work and sell their wares, the guilds made it possible for jewelers to have a reliable conduit to their public. Joseph A. Hodel (English, 1873–1930), Venus Necklace, ca. 1905. Silver alloy, gold alloy, enamel, fire opal, pearl. Collection of Richard H. Driehaus. Photograph by John A. Faier, 2014, © The Richard H. Driehaus Museum. The male jewelry designers of the British Arts and Crafts movement had, for the most part, originally trained as architects and artists and then became interested in metalworking as another medium to express their talents. Jewelry offered them a platform that made their work visible and saleable. While talented women designers and jewelry makers emerged during the early twentieth century, an equal number of men became known for their jewelry designs to complement the stylish clothing worn by women in artistic circles. Necklaces, brooches, waist clasps, cloak clasps, and sets of buttons were common accessories. Nature was a favorite subject, following the lead of William Morris (1834–1896), widely acknowledged as the father of the Arts and Crafts movement, and the noted art critic John Ruskin (1819–1900). These nature-inspired motifs were sometimes fashioned from enamel, such as the Venus Necklace by Joseph Hodel of the Bromsgrove Guild.