Washington Winter Show 2017

44 Coco Chanel: A New Portrait by Marion Pike, Paris 1967–1971 This page is sponsored by Anne Elmore and Lucy Rhame W hen Jeffie Pike Durham contacted me in November 2011, my book Chanel: Couture and Industry had just been released. There, I had referenced a photo shoot by David Bailey, published in American Vogue , March 15, 1968. Dressed in designs from Chanel’s spring/summer collection, the models posed against a backdrop of two huge paintings of the couturière (1883–1971) by Marion Pike, a well-known American portraitist. One was Coco Chanel— Big Head; the other depicted the designer seated in her salon, amid bolts of cloth and white-coated atelier staff. Bailey’s shoot echoed the presentation of Chanel’s runway show, at which both paintings were hung prominently. During our first conversation, Jeffie told me that she had in her possession a number of her mother’s paintings, including the two I had referenced, along with many photographs, letters, and sketches. I am a historian and curator who works with dress to construct narratives—in texts and exhibitions—about women’s lives. When I enquired whether Marion ever wore garments designed by Chanel, Jeffie seemed a little surprised. Yes, she said, both she and her mother had. Furthermore, they were currently hanging in her wardrobe! Unlike the other archival material, Jeffie had never regarded these garments as holders of deeply personal and family meaning. They were simply beautiful clothes that might again be worn. Within moments of putting the phone down, Jeffie sent me images of the two paintings to show their entirety and vibrant color (the Vogue shoot was black and white), along with a photographic portrait of Chanel and Marion Pike standing to either side of Coco Chanel—Big Head (Fig. 3). Informal snapshots showed the two women together in by Amy de la Haye and Jeffie Pike Durham November 7, 2011 Dear Professor de la Haye: I am the daughter of Marion Pike, the American artist whom you mention on page 10 of your fascinating new book, “Chanel.” I would very much like to talk with you… With great appreciation, Jeffie Pike Durham November 8, 2011 Dear Jeffie, Thank you for contacting me. I am delighted that you have enjoyed the book. I don’t know very much about Marion Pike but was fascinated by the information I could find. I will gladly talk. Kind regards, Amy women, friendship, and the evolution of an exhibition