Palm Beach Show 2011

15 Patriotic themes became popular—red, white, and blue were prominent colors—and military images of airplanes and medals were frequently seen. Women wore bracelets with each charm representing a husband, a son, or brother fighting the war. Paris-based jeweler Mauboussin created a “Jeep” brooch in gold, brilliants, and a cabochon ruby to celebrate the liberation of Paris. After the war, a new style blossomed. In 1947, Christian Dior introduced his electrify- ing “New Look” collection and the era of wartime restraint, rationing, and self-depriva- tion was over. A new lushness and opulence entered fashion, and a new affluence and sophistication entered society. Travel became easier and more accessible, and Europeans and Americans had more exposure to one another, with influences and ideas crossing the Atlantic faster than ever before. Weary of the war, there was a universal craving for comfort, luxury, and leisure. The military- influenced, strict, even parsimonious tailor- ing required by wartime fabric rationing was replaced by a joyous celebration of softness and femininity. Tiny waists and generous décolletage were accentuated by sweetheart necklines and billowing skirts and crinolines. Silk was no longer reserved for parachutes; it could be layered lavishly on dresses that were meant, in Christian Dior’s words “to make women look like flowers.” It was the era of the cocktail party, and jewelry design followed the prevailing mood in fashion and culture. It became softer, more romantic, more feminine and more hopeful than it had been during the Depression and the war years. American Retro jewelry exhib- ited playfulness in this era that is utterly charming: sea shells, birds, and hearts were THIS PAGE , TOP : “Dauphins” brooch, 18-karat gold, the bodies set with diamonds and sapphires, circa 1957, by Rene Boivin, Paris. Courtesy of Primavera Gallery. THIS PAGE , BOTTOM : Fantastic pair of platinum and white gold earclips each designed as a pavé-diamond and calibré- cut aquamarine scroll Suzanne Belperron, Paris circa 1945. Previously property of heiress and philanthropist Doris Duke whose life was brought to screen in the 2007 film 'Bernard and Doris' staring Susan Sarandon and Ralph Fiennes. Courtesy, Hancocks.