Palm Beach Show 2011

16 recurring motifs: peaceful, lighthearted images meant to counter the recent horrors of the war. European designers like Rene Boivin, Verdura, and Jean Schlumberger explored mythological images like unicorns, mer- maids, phoenixes, and winged horses in gold, enamel, and precious stones, and Van Cleef & Arpels introduced their famous jeweled “ballerina” brooches. Realistic depictions of animals were also popular, and chic lapels were frequently adored with gorgeous jeweled menageries of birds and beasts. One of the most famous of these natural- ist jewels was the Cartier “Panther” brooch, designed for the Duchess of Windsor in THIS PAGE , UPPER LEFT : 18-karat yellow gold and diamond necklace, Mauboussin, circa 1940s. Courtesy, Fred Leighton. THIS PAGE , LOWER LEFT : Turquoise necklace in 18-karat yellow gold, diamond, and citrine, circa 1952, by Cartier, France. Courtesy, Camilla Dietz Bergeron. THIS PAGE , INSET : Coral, emerald, diamond and gold love bird brooch by Cartier made 1950. The brooch is marked with French Assay Mark, signed and numbered. Courtesy, L'Etoile Royale. 1948. It featured a gold panther with black enamel spots, reclining, majestically on a “rock”—a 90-karat, cabochon emerald. It created a world-wide sensation, and made the